When it comes to restaurants, I am very particular and specifically when it comes to ideological aspects of what I am consuming: the provenance of ingredients, a recipe’s heritage, ancestral techniques of preparation, the aesthetics of the space, and most importantly genuinely empathetic service that reflects the passion and dedication the staff have to their profession. Regardless of Michelin’s star rankings, I cannot tell you the number of highly rated dining experiences that I have had that fall so incredibly short of their accolades.
So when I checked into the Xendochio Milos in Athens, not only did I have a significant expectation of the hotel experience, but I was literally biting at the bit to dive into the culinary delights proffered by the hotel’s founder, Costas Spiliadis.
Known globally for his exceptional approach to traditional yet contemporary interpretations of Hellenic dishes, Spildais debuted his gastronomic journey in 1979 with a small restaurant in Montreal, Canada. His mission: to elevate the sophistication of Greek cuisine abroad. Four decades later, his Milos concept has graced the streets of capital cities worldwide including New York, London, Miami and Dubai. So when the Patmos-born chef decided to bring his concept to the Athenian capital, it was not only another element of expansion of his empire but rather a homecoming in the form of a boutique hotel accompanied by a pristinely designed restaurant.
The Xenodocheio Milos sits like a perfectly faceted diamond in the crown of the Kolonaki district of Athens. Located near some of my favourite retailers such as the Naxos Apothecary (with whom the hotel has partnered for their room amenities) and The Ancient Greek Sandal Company (I mean who doesn’t need golden winged sandals, right?), the hotel offers decidedly contemporary accommodations flavoured ever so subtly by local traditions, customs, and of course mythology. Its Diversity & Carole Topin designed interiors are punctuated with references to Cycladic culture and a millennial connection to the Aegean Sea, but in a way that remains relevant, minimalist, and warmly inviting.
For a small hotel of only 43 rooms, the service is impeccable, with each staff member embodying the age-old Greek tradition of Philoxenia, a virtuous pursuit of excellence that goes beyond hospitality and that reflects a true desire to create a friendship with guests, be it ephemeral in nature or for a lifetime of loyalty. Who better to greet guests, with enthusiasm, elegance, and encyclopaedia-like knowledge of the neighbourhood but Angelo, the Hotel’s multi-tasking, multi-talented Concierge and hotel Ambassador. Perfectly turned out and always wearing the most genuine of smiles, Angelo is the establishment’s insurance policy that guests leave feeling as if they were never a guest at all. For me, that is the hallmark of a great hotel experience.
Though my intention was to speak of the restaurant, I think it is important to understand the context of its hotel setting…so forgive me whilst I digress a bit. Upon arriving to my room, I was quick to notice small details that really mean a lot to me. Artwork, surface materials, colour palettes, ceiling height, thread counts, and of course amenities. All of these are perfectly coordinated at the Xenodocheio Milos, providing a hotel room experience that is both well-designed and well-considered. The amenities, as I have previously mentioned, are provided in partnership with The Naxos Apothecary (the luxury branch of the famous Korres personal care brand). I immediately fell in love with the fragrance and the texture of the shampoo, body milk, and shower gel; a fragrance baptised as the Milos Blend and filled with a robust punch of Mediterranean citrus, woods, and salts.
As I had arrived late to the hotel, I did not have dinner, but to my surprise, an evening knock came to the door. Worried that there was to be an emergency evacuation of the building, I flung upon the door only to see a well-groomed and outfitted member of the culinary team standing ever so graciously in front of me with a tiny cut crystal plate. On its ornately decorated surface sat the most luscious-looking orange cake square, glistening with honey under the subdued lighting of the hallway. With pride he offered me my late night friandise mentioning its key ingredients and that this custom would accompany every evening of my stay. Little did I know that each evening would be marked by a different pastry or cake, all reflecting the local ingredients and customs. Let’s just say that little amuse bouche was a mere foreshadowing of breakfast that would follow the next morning at the hotel’s Estiatorio Milos restaurant.
Bathed in a soft palate of white, beige, and stripped-back oak, the dining room was awash with soft diffused light coming from the early morning sun piercing through the volumes of white sheers that lined the street-facing windows. Immediately you are reminded of Spildais’ true vocation as an impresario of maritime cuisine. From the cheeky but elegant wink to schools of fish in the abstract net-like lighting to the long stainless fish trough, empty now for the breakfast service, but eager to receive buckets of crushed ice and freshly caught seafood for the evening. There was no buffet, which at first is a bit surprising as that has become customary in many luxury hotels today. What arrived, however, was a veritable cavalcade of Hellenic dishes and delights as part of its signature Hotel Breakfast. Once you experience the quality, you will understand why I am so poetic about this particular breakfast. As a starter, I was given freshly squeezed orange juice, a plate of succulent fruits, and a large bowl of whole milk organic Greek yoghurt which had been generously doused with the most golden-looking honey my eyes have ever seen. Imagine all the gold of Byzantium condensed into a richly orchestrated accoutrement to an already perfectly churned dessert. This was followed by a bread basket of freshly baked and grilled breads and a Greek fry-up including customised eggs (I ask for scrambled always as I think that though it is the simplest of preparations, it can be the tell-tale sign of inexperience if they are not done correctly), plump tomatoes, a pile of deliciously bitter kalamata olives, and a beautiful slice of salty and rich feta cheese. Polished off by a pot of brewed coffee, this happened to be one of the most elegant and satisfying hotel breakfast’s that I have experienced.
My next experience with the restaurant’s culinary prowess came in the form of a late-night supper organised by Angelo. Having returned late from visiting the Temple of Poseidon located 75 km south of Athens at Cape Sounion. In awe of my pilgrimage to the temple, but weary from the travel, it was a pure delight to arrive to my room with dinner already laid for my enjoyment. Fresh sea bream in rustic lemon and caper sauce, greek salad, roasted vegetables, and a bounty of bread. Followed by more Orange Cake (I couldn’t resist) and a wonderful Mountain Tea infusion. I couldn’t have asked for a better way to end an already memorable day.
So it was with a bit of sadness in my heart that I had to eventually bid Angelo and the team farewell. But, if the truth be known, ever since my first visit, I have had the pleasure of staying at the Xenodocheio Milos each and every time I return to Athens. I couldn’t imagine it any other way.
