For years, I prayed that Brunello Cucinelli would launch a perfume collection. It was the one product category unexplored by the brand and always left me feeling like something fundamental was missing from my Cucinelli experience. I knew though, that patience is a virtue and that all good things come to those who wait.
For me, perfume is one of life’s luxuries that embody both a spiritual and visceral experience, anchored by the talent of a human nose and nature’s bountiful gift of florals, botanicals, and minerals. They are precious formulas that intoxicate the Muses who, in turn, inspire us to create indelible moments of personal expression. And for a brand, they can either be an anathema to their brand identity if they are the product of commercial clumsiness or if expertly crafted, an iconic homage to a brand’s heritage.
So considering my passion for perfume and high level of expectation from the Cucinelli brand, I had always envisioned those scents to be like bucolic pieces of poetry suspended in a light golden elixir, enchanting us with all the Umbrian charm that only Brunello could offer. And there captured in the crystal confines of an elegant but ultra-refined bottle would float centuries of wise words that had dripped off the tongues of philosopher kings and a sensorial ode to beauty and the pleasure of simplicity.
Not much to ask for, considering the world of Brunello Cucinelli and its authentic and considered aesthetic.
So you can imagine the trepidation of my eager feet stepping inside the Bond Street flagship, just before Christmas, to catch a whiff of the newly launched pair of men’s and women’s fragrances. Needless to say, I was not disappointed.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI POUR FEMME
Firstly, I experienced Brunello Cucinelli Pour Femme. Engineered by Daphné Bugey, the prestigious nose behind K by Dolce & Gabbana and Scandal by Jean-Paul Gaultier, the Brunello Cucinelli women’s fragrance is more like a soft melody of wind whispering through Tuscan Cypress trees. It is a delicate and alluring composition of floral, fruity, and musky notes, capturing the essence of femininity and grace. The top notes are a vibrant blend of Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian Mandarin and Pink Pepper, creating a bright and invigorating opening. The heart of the fragrance features a bouquet of orange flower and creamy chestnut adding a touch of romance and sophistication. The base notes of Musk, Haitian Vetiver, and Cedar provide a sensual and comforting finish, enveloping the wearer in a veil of warmth and elegance. I imagined not an Aphrodite-like femininity bubbling from the sea but more like the sensual and maternal elegance of Hera wafting gently through the gardens of the Hesperides. And despite the perfume’s decidedly feminine aspects, I easily imagined myself wearing it on a warm summer’s day paired with oatmeal linen trousers and a billowing white linen shirt.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI POUR HOMME
It was then on to Brunello Cucinelli Pour Homme which perfumer Olivier Cresp cleverly constructed with a fresh opening burst of black pepper from Madagascar, Calabrian Bergamot, and spicy ginger from Nigeria; a holistically balanced trifecta acting like a shield glistening in the sun and purposely positioned to hide the fragrance’s virile clarey sage and cypress heart. But as this potion dried, the pure masculine energy of Clearwood & musky Ambrox revealed itself like darkened thunder clouds casting their shadow on fields of summer grain. Considering the deep contrasts I was struck by how harmonious and fluid the transitions were, which gave the perfume a sense of rugged sophistication and understated elegance. If ever there was a fragrance that fluently and effortlessly spoke my style vernacular, it would have to be Brunello’s fragrance for men.
For years I have hunted for the perfect signature fragrance, one as polyvalent and varied as my lifestyle; one fragrance that effortlessly pairs with a sartorially perfect dinner suit, but equally compliments the casualness of cosy winter white cashmere. Needless to say, I am now addicted to the timeless and classic beauty of this scent; finding itself splashed and sprayed on bed linens and bath towels and liberally enjoyed for any occasion. Did I hear someone say shower gel?
Likewise, having purchased both fragrances, I have also discovered that layering the men’s and women’s together creates yet another transportive olfactory experience, adding additional depth and complexity to the projection. For some, the fragrances may be considered overly airy or light, but I am convinced that the deeply saturated and resin-rich trends of an oriental and gourmande marketplace have desensitised our subtle perception of fragrance. This dynamic duo from Brunello Cucinelli is purpose-built for a new generation of wearer, seeking the charm and seduction of softer Mediterranean & Occidental notes.
For those who have always wanted to experience the brand’s iconic take on quiet luxury, but have never found the right opportunity, the 2023 fragrance launch offers an accessible and inspirational glimpse into the world of Cucinelli and the world of beauty he and his family have created in Solomeo, the idyllic Umbrian village which serves as both inspiration and headquarters to his eponymous brand.
